Cooler Master Hyper T2 Compact CPU Cooler Dual Looped, 95mm Fan, 2 Copper Direct Contact Heat Pipe for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151

I just got this and installed it today, but I wanted to write this review to answer all of the questions I had in mind before I purchased a fan, just in case there are other people wondering the same things but struggling to get a good answer. I'll update this review if, after some time and use, I feel it deserves less stars. First, I will list the specifications of the Hyper T2 fan that came on the box. Fits the following CPU sockets: -Intel Socket LGA 1156/1155/1150/775 -AMD Socket FM2+/FM2/FM1/AM3+/AM3/AM2+/AM2 Dimensions: 93 x 80 x 140mm (3.7 x 3.1 x 5.5 inch) Heat Sink Dimensions 90 x 51 x 140mm (3.5 x 2.0 x 5.5 inch) -- From the bottom flat pipes that adhere to to the CPU to the top 2 pipes of the fan, this is 140mm tall. (Something I wish I had known beforehand. Luckily this fit in my case just fine, but it's likely that some of the 4 pipe fans would not have). Heat Sink Material: 2 Direct Contact Heatpipes/ Aluminum Fins Heat Sink Weight: 248g/ 0.55lb Heat Pipe Dimensions: Ø6mm Fan Dimensions: 92 x 92 x 25mm (3.6 x 3.6 x 1 inch) Fan Speed: 800 - 2800 RPM (PWM) Fan Air Flow 15.7 - 54.8 CFM Fan Air Pressure: 0.35 - 4.27 mm H2O Fan Life Expectancy: 40,000 hours Noise level: 17-35 dBA (I find it to be silent when I'm not gaming, but still pretty quiet when I am) Bearing Type: Long Life Sleeve Connector: 4 Pin Rated Voltage: 12 VDC Safety Current: 0.6 A Rated Current: 0.26 A Power Consumption: 3.12 W Max. Fan Weight: 91 g / 0.20 lbs Weight: 340 g / 0.75 lb So far the only con to this fan is that installation was a bit tricky. It has 4 push pins just like the stock coolers you will get from Intel (thought it also comes with some sort of clip for AMD mobos... wouldn't know about that since I'm using Intel products), so it seems like things should be relatively simple. They are, but only after you figure out which way to rotate all the pins before pushing them into the holes. The directions are just pictures with no explanation, which is why I struggled at first. I did eventually figure things out, but it would be nice if they updated the directions to have some written instruction. As for the the fan, it's perceptibly better than a stock cooler. When doing very simple things (like writing this review) you shouldn't be experiencing high temperatures anyway, but the cooler has dropped things a few degrees C. However, there seems to be a relatively decent difference while playing games. The highest I've noticed the stock cooler at was 55 C, which is kind of pushing it since apparently you don't want to get any hotter than 60. Doing a quick test run of a solo dungeon in the game, Tera, at max graphics, most of my cores are staying near 40-43 C. Again, I'll come back and update this review once I've used the fan for longer or tried it with different games. I bought this fan for essentially $5.50. The list price was 9.99 (10.50 with tax) and there was a 5$ mail in rebate. I highly doubt I could find a better fan for 5$. Stock coolers on Amazon are listed for around 8. For the price, this is a pretty damn good value.

Jenni K. · 2018-07-25 · via amazon

Just to start off, I have a ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard. The previous fan, a Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler, started dying on year 4. I needed a replacement therefore I checked my options on PCPartPicker and found this fan here on Amazon. I bought it, unboxed it once delivered and took my old fan out to replace it with this. First of all, I hate replacing fans. It's always annoying and bad luck for me. I used the setup for my last fan because it was easier that way; Basically took off the part holding the old fan and put in on the new one, disregarding whatever the new fan came with. Would have worked fine but I would've had to move some wires and I just wanted to get this over with. The prongs never seem to sit in right and then you worry about the thermal paste not getting smeared and blah blah. After some colorful language and locking the fan in place, I fired up my computer to hear a silent fan and watched my temps on Coretemp to make sure it was working well and nothing was overheating and everything seemed fine! Safe to say it's all still working groovy after several weeks of constant use. <3.... also, sorry for the crap photo.

Maddeh · 2020-02-17 · via amazon

I set out to make a "nearly" silent PC, in that I didn't want to go fanless, but I wanted it to have the fans running so slowly (or off) during normal operation that it was silent, and it was only during intensive activities that the fans would ramp up. I bought this Hypter T2 CPU cooler as it is the biggest Cooler Master that fits in a standard case and then replaced the fan with a Noctua NF-A9, and am very happy with the resulting solution. I give it 4 stars instead of 5 because I needed to swap out the fan, but I'd still recommend doing that instead of buying a much more expensive Noctua CPU cooler. It saves about $30 even when taking into account the extra fan purchase. Why did I have to replace the fan? Because the Cooler Master fan sucks and doesn't allow you to reduce the fan speed below ~32%. I was very frustrated as I didn't know why it wouldn't go that low. Was it the fan controller on the motherboard? Or the fan software (either BIOS or at the OS)? But after doing a lot of debugging I finally determined that it was the Cooler Master fan's internal controller that was at fault. It would stay at about 850 RPM for any PWM setting below 32%, including zero, but once it got over that, it would ramp up to the correct speed all the way up to a max of 2500 RPM. I do have one slight workaround to provide you with a little more control if you want to stick with the stock fan: Switch to DC fan mode on your fan controller. With DC mode I could get the fan down to about 500 RPM at 32% (3.84V) and I could also get it to shut off entirely when desired, something in PWM mode the fan won't allow *EVER*. It's really frustrating that the stock fan won't allow that control and I wonder how many people have blamed their fan controller not realizing it's the stupid fan's fault. So, what I'd suggest is buy the Hyper T2 and then swap out the fan for a Noctua NF-B9 (yes, the B9 instead of the A9 I am using, as it is cheaper and works just as well). The good news is that with this CPU cooler and the right fans both on this CPU cooler and the rest of the system, as well as an EVGA gold power supply in "eco mode" I have a truly silent PC, where a pretty sensitive dB meter can not detect it being on. I have to do the test in the middle of the night, because even cars going by outside are detectable. But at 3 AM, it reads 21.1 dB with the PC off and 21.1 dB with it on. My stomach gurgles and the stupid thing goes up to 24 dB or I click the mouse and it goes up to over 30 dB so trust me when I say the dB meter is sensitive enough to detect pretty small readings. To be fair and give a caveat, to keep it silent, the fans are running at 13% on the rear of the case, 10% on the CPU and 5% on the GPU and the front of case fan is off. But that's just enough air flow with the good heatsinks that in normal operation the system temp stays around 40 and both the CPU temp and GPU temps stay in the mid 50's. Build details: -Intel Core i3-8100 CPU -MSI Z370M Mortar motherboard -Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti "Windforce OC" GPU (Note: Gigabyte is the only vendor with a good fan controller on their 1050 GPU. The other companies have junk 2-pin fans. Also note I replaced the fans it comes with, with Noctua NF-B9's as their fans were noisy on ramp up.) -2 of 4 GB DDR4 2400 Kingston Fury DIMMs -Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD -EVGA 650 GQ PSU in eco mode

K. Crawford · 2018-04-19 · via amazon

I'm not a Gamer, but I do take and edit lots of photographs. Who would have thought that when I ran a function to reduce shake on a photograph that my CPU temp would shoot from 120f (48c) to 171f (77.2c)? I sure as hell didn't. I installed this unit today and then ran the same editing function on the same photograph. The CPU temp never rose above 89f (31.6c) - which is pretty close to my previous temps at idle. My new idle temps are down by 30 degrees fahrenheit. My previous cooler was the one boxed by AMD along with my CPU (AMD Phenom II X4 840). It requires a lot of space - it was intimidating just seeing it in the box - but it the installation was no more difficult than that of a standard CPU fan. I purchased this on Amazon over Black Friday for less than $10.00. Sweet. Cooler Master Hyper T2 - Compact CPU Cooler with Dual Looped Direct Contact Heatpipes, INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support

trdavidson · 2017-12-04 · via amazon

This T2 is one of the newest versions from Cooler Master. Everyone raves about the Hyper 212 EVO but seeing that this was a compact size cooler I decided to give the T2 a go. Bottom Line: It works very well. Definitely better than the stock intel CPU cooler and I could fit it facing up toward the top fan of my case (Above my graphics card on a ASUS 87-Plus motherboard) or I could fit it as it is now with the CPU fan blowing out toward the rear case fan (And this includes having 2 sticks of high profile RAM in the first two RAM slots; If you have 4 sticks of high profile RAM it's not going to fit but it might be possible with low profile RAM I have no way of testing it out). Anyway, my CPU runs about 3 degrees Celsius cooler in idle and doesn't make the loud fan noise on initial startup of my computer as my stock fan did. Airflow is a definite improvement since I now have air flowing from front to back continuously. I have not run stress tests on my CPU such as Prime95 but don't think it's necessary given that I only occasionally game on my computer for short periods of time. I'm sure it will hold up just fine in stress tests; I mean really all you need to make sure of with any type of CPU cooler is that you apply just the right amount of thermal paste and have a good connection between the copper and CPU so heat can conduct. I just didn't like my stock intel because it was louder and the airflow was less than optimal. This is a great fan. Simple. But it works. The pins that insert into the motherboard are also very durable. I accidentally bent a few of the white plastic pins on the CPU clip when trying to insert them into the motherboard. You would definitely think they would break how much I pressure I put on the thing not realizing it wasn't going in, but they didn't break! It was just severely bent but I could bend them back to shape to insert into the board for a secure fit! Just be aware of this when inserting this push-in and click type CPU attachment and make sure the holes line up! I was impressed with how durable the clip was and the way it attaches to the board is a big selling point for a lot of aftermarket CPU buyers. Worked fine for me just be patient when installing!

Sebastian · 2014-07-22 · via amazon

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VALUE SCORE

Price

$9.99

Price

$9.99